How to Color Your Hair at Home, According to Pros

Don't Wash Your Hair Beforehand

The natural oils on your scalp actually serve as a protective barrier to guard against irritation from the chemicals in the hair dye, so you want them there before you apply dye. "Do not wash your hair before applying color," notes Morales. "This will irritate your scalp and can become painful. The hair should be clean of product but not of your natural oils, as it acts as a protectant."

Remove Buildup

If your hair is particularly dirty, however, make sure that you wash your hair at least 24 hours before reaching for the box—doing so will help the dye penetrate without being too clean and vulnerable to the effects of the dye. Gould recommends using a clarifying shampoo as it "will create a clean canvas for the dye to adhere to and result in more even color distribution." We like Ouai's Detox Shampoo as it harnesses the power of apple cider vinegar to wash away excess oil without drying it out and keratin to strengthen strands.

Detangle Your Hair

Prior to reaching for your hair dye, Morales recommends thoroughly detangling your hair. This will prevent any knots or tangles from creating an uneven application—plus, we doubt you want to worry about any detangling mid-application. Use a wide-tooth comb and gently work your way from your ends to your roots.

Pick the Best Formula For You

Long gone are the days when liquid hair dye formulas were the only option for at-home hair color. Now, mousse formulas are just as popular. What’s the difference between a liquid dye and a mousse formula, you ask? McLean says mousse colors are more translucent, leading to a shimmery, iridescent effect after being applied. Liquid colors are typically more opaque or condensed and may lead to a more pigmented final look.

Keep Your Hair Color Simple

When it comes to at-home color, McLean recommends keeping things simple, “At-home color can be great for touching up your professional color in between appointments,” he says. Try not to go more than one or two shades lighter or darker than your natural color—anything more, and you run the risk of splotchy, uneven color that can turn brassy, plus an expensive salon bill to correct the mistakes.

As for highlights? “Any form of highlighting, balayage, or ombré becomes too challenging for at-home coloring procedures,” he says. “Those should be left to the professionals.” 

Be Patient With Drastic Color Changes

Now, if you really want to do a drastic color change, say from black to platinum, you're going to need to be patient. Most experts, including Gould, suggest seeing a professional colorist for this type of change. If you're set on doing it at home though, here's how he recommends you go about it.

First, you need to choose a high-quality hair lightening product specifically designed for dark hair, such as Garnier's Nutrisse Ultra Color Blondes Lightening Cream which is formulated to lift seven levels of pigment. Make sure to follow all the tips we've provided so far (wash your hair 24 hours in advance, detangle, etc.) beforehand, and then once you start applying the dye make sure to follow the directions. "Pay attention to recommended processing times—it’s easy to leave bleach on too long and the results are never pretty," warns Gould. Then, if you haven't reached your desired shade, he says to space out your next dyeing session to avoid damage. In the meantime, you can use a color-depositing shampoo and toner to minimize brass and neutralize your temporary shade.

Choose the Right Shade

When it comes to choosing a flattering at-home color, McLean says to keep your skin tone in mind. “If you have paler skin, go for color with warmer tones,” he suggests. “If you have olive to darker skin tones, ashy or cooler tones will complement you.”

Do a Strand Test

Before applying dye all over, Gould strains the importance of doing a strand test first to make sure your hair reacts well to the formula. (You wouldn't want to damage your hair to the point of breakage, now would you?) Plus, he says doing this will help you see how the hair color will actually turn out and how long it needs to process.

Follow the Directions On the Box

This tip may seem obvious, but it's one worth mentioning. "Read and follow the instructions carefully," says Morales. At-home hair coloring kits have been formulated to work in a specific way, so it's important to use the instructions that come with your kit for any application recommendations like timing and post-color conditioners.

Use the Right Application Tools

When it comes to glistening, all-over color, it’s all about how you apply the dye. Instead of combing through with your fingers, which can lead to splotchy, uneven color, McLean says to use an application brush like the ones a professional colorist would use. Here’s a little secret: you can score them for less than a dollar at most beauty stores! He also recommends using disposable latex gloves. Most times, these tools come with the at-home dye box.

Don't Mix Your Dye in Advance

Just because you have two boxes of hair dye doesn't mean you should use them both at once. "Only prepare and mix what you are going to use," Morales says. You don't want your hair dye to go to waste if you don't end up needing it. Don't worry—the few minutes it takes to mix up that second box won't lead to an uneven color.

Section Your Hair

When it comes to actually coloring your hair, it's a good idea to work in sections rather than trying to dye your entire head at once. "For a better coverage, make sure you section you hair properly," Morales says. The amount of sections you'll need is dependent on how much hair you're working with, but in general, create a minimum of four sections—two on the bottom half of your hair and two on the top. McLean also recommends stocking up on clips, like Fagaci Hair Clips to section off your hair.

Protect Your Hairline

We'd be willing to bet that one of the last things you want is a stained hairline post-hair dye. Luckily, this is avoidable. McLean suggests applying a barrier cream at the hairline to prevent staining. Try using Vaseline's 100% Pure Petroleum Jelly, which will keep any hair dye from adhering to your skin mid-application. When you're done, you can wipe away any dye—and petroleum jelly—from your skin using a cotton pad and some lukewarm water.

Phone a Friend

Coloring your hair at-home can be challenging, especially if you're doing it all on your own. To make sure you get even coverage, McLean recommends having a friend to lend a hand (who you’ll need when you’re craning to make sure you didn’t miss a spot) to help with your at-home hair coloring journey. If they're not able to be there in person, a video chat will do.

Purchase Extra Hair Dye

It's easy to think that you'll only need one box of hair dye when coloring your hair at home—after all, it is an at-home hair coloring kit. But if you have a lot of hair, Morales advises otherwise. "Buy more than one box of color—you don't want to be short on product in the middle of the process."

Switch to Color-Safe Hair Care Products

After you've mastered the above dyeing hair tips, you may be curious about post-color care. To keep your new hue looking its best and prevent premature fading, it's a good idea to swap your go-to shampoo and conditioner for a duo that's specifically formulated for color-treated hair, such as Love Beauty and Planet's Sulfate-Free Murumuru Butter & Rose Shampoo and Conditioner. We also recommend using Innersense's Hydrating Hair Mask at least once a week to give your ends some extra love.

Stay Clear of the Sun We

We're not saying you can't spend time in the sun, but prolonged exposure to sunlight can fade the color in your hair. "If you plan to spend time in the sun, consider wearing a hat or using hair products with UV protection," suggests Gould.