Turns out hair is a lot more complicated than simply calling it "curly" or "straight". Beyond just identifying the texture, you know that if you have curls, they come in lots of different shapes, colors, and sizes. Considering all these differences might seem like a lot, but they play a large role when it comes to creating a style and tailoring a routine that's optimal for your own unique curl pattern. Understanding your overall hair type come into play here, too. And once you do, it will make a world of difference when caring for your strands.
If you think you fit into the type 3A hair category, which means you have defined spirals, this guide is for you. We turned to the experts—stylist Nubia Rëzo and trichologist Kerry Yates—to find out what exactly defines this 3A hair (on the spectrum of 1A-4C), as well as helpful tips to make sure that your hair is healthy and looking its best.
Meet the Expert
- Nubia Rëzo is a hair stylist, expert educator, salon owner, and product formulator for Rëzo Hair Care.
- Kerry Yates is a trichologist and the founder of Colour Collective.
What Is Type 3A Hair?
3A curls have a defined ringlet. The curl itself, though, is both wider and looser than other ringlet curls. "To understand what I mean by ringlets, visualize a corkscrew and when I speak of loose curls, think of that ringlet being wide enough to easily wrap around a small banana or a thick highlighter pen," notes Yates. "The diameter ranges from 1 inch to 1/2 inch."
While it's possible to have just one hair type, the reality can be slightly more varied. As Yates points out, having a range of hair types can be common due to the genetic nature of hair. "Did you know that not every follicle is created equal?" asks Yates. "Each follicle works independently, meaning on one head you can have many different curl types ranging from type 2 and type 3 curls." she explains.
If you're overwhelmed by this explanation, Rëzo simplifies it by describing 3A curls as: "they are springy loopy curls."
Differentiating Between Type 3A and Other Hair Types
"There are four basic curl types ranging from 1 to 4," shares Yates. "Type 2 denotes wavy hair with no discernible curl, and types 3 and 4 plus additional classifications define both the curl type and shape. If your curls are defined ringlets, think like the shape of a slinky or corkscrew, then you have class 3 curls. If your curls follow more of a 'z' pattern, then you have class 4 types of curls."
The difference between 3A's neighboring pattern 2C is quite defined. Type 2C does not have a completely formed ringlet, whereas 3A does, making it a generally direct differentiation standpoint. The difference between 3A and 3B, however, can be a tad more difficult as both are defined ringlets and differ in curl tightness.
"3B curls are more spirally ringlets," Rëzo adds, "3A hair is often made up of strands that are 'S' shaped."
How Should You Care for Type 3A Hair?
"Curly hair is more fragile, and the tighter the curl, the drier the strand," Yates notes. "Type 3A curls can require some extra support based on the hair texture (fine, medium, coarse) and hair health." So, how do you narrow down the perfect routine that shows your hair love without causing distress? The experts have some tips.
Avoid Chemical Exposure
"Heavily highlighted curls will be dry and more prone to breakage," says Yates. "Exposure to heavy chemicals can negatively impact the curl shape and can cause some ringlets to be more wave-like and even appear frizzy."
Studies support this notion, showing that chemical treatments lead to a decrease in the lipid content of the cell surface in hair and change it from a state of hydrophobicity to a more hydrophilic state. The TLDR: chemically treated hair may no longer be locked in moisture and can generally lead to what Yates noted as dry hair with more breakage.
Deep Condition
Experts note that deep conditioners can be essential to help repair damaged hair. "Since 3A is right in the middle, it is advised to show it some extra love, but not too much," says Rëzo. "You want to make sure to deep condition as part of your hair routine, especially with any texture tighter than a 3. Usually, the tighter the curl, the dryer the hair. This happens because the more textured the hair is, the harder it is for it to hold moisture."
Limit Silicone Products
"Choose formulas that limit their silicone usage," instructs Yates. "Silicones can enhance shine and flexibility in the short term but can exacerbate hair conditions and [compromise] overall health in the long term."
Typically, over time, a silicone buildup in hair can actually cause breakage, dehydration, and leave your hair generally weaker. Instead, look for products with emollients such as plant-based oils. "In addition, for curls with various ringlet shapes, choose styling products with natural resins that tout weightless styling," notes Yates. "The idea is to create a bouncy curl, not a heavy curl that will fall into a wave after styling."
"Since the type 3A curl is already naturally springy, you really don’t need much product to style," adds Rëzo. Instead, you'll want to focus most of your energy on boosting moisture.
Avoid Over Washing
"Washing your hair too frequently dries it out," says Rëzo. "It is advised to wash your hair only once a week"– note that this applies to 3A hair specifically, and other hair types may require different wash frequencies. By washing less, it will allow "the natural oils your scalp produces to sit in your hair and make your hair stronger and overall healthier," Rëzo adds. Because curly hair tends to be more textured and dry, the scalp's oils have a challenging time actually reaching the hair shaft, where it's needed most, and washing disrupts that chain of events even further.
Use a Microfiber Towel
"When drying your hair, it’s important to be extra gentle with type 3A hair," Rëzo says. "This hair type is known to frizz up so being gentle to the touch will help avoid that." After washing, "you want to make sure you’re always using a microfiber towel to pat the hair dry," she instructs. "Using a regular towel will cause friction and frizz to the hair and also create damage." Another pro tip: "When diffusing, make sure to use low heat and high pressure. Using low heat will avoid any heat damage on the curls which can loosen them up. This happens especially with type 3A hair and looser."
Sleep With Silk
"The hair should always be protected with a silk pillowcase, bonnet, or scarf to ensure it does not tangle up while sleeping," Rëzo says. Believe it or not, the friction between hair and say, a cotton pillowcase, can exacerbate breakage, dryness, and ultimately damage.
What Are Some of the Best Hairstyles and Cuts for Type 3A Hair?
Experts agree that while technically you can wear 3A hair at any length, a shorter cut is often better. "Long hair can be heavy, and as a result, it can pull the ringlet feature out of the hair," says Yates. She says that the perfect length for your ringlets to shine is "no more than two to three inches below the shoulder (when hair is straight) or at your shoulder when hair is styled curly."
Rëzo notes that styling 3A as a round-shaped cut can often compliment the curls. "This is a very popular cut for 3A hair considering it is a cut meant for any curly hair type and caters to 3A hair, especially if they are looking for volume," she shares. "There are many ways to wear this specific hair type whether you leave your hair up or down, short or long."
"In addition, you will want to create multiple layers throughout the hair; otherwise, the end result will make you look like you are wearing a bell on your head," Yates adds. "Bobs, short and long, are good for this curl type."