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Tawni Bannister for BYRDIE
If you're one of the lucky ones who regularly experience breakouts, you're no stranger to salicylic acid, but how much do you know about willow bark extract? The plant extract is often touted as the gentle, natural alternative to salicylic acid, but can it really address your acne, slough away your dead skin, and remove excess oil as effectively as the tried and true BHA? Feeling equal parts skeptical and hopeful (such is life with acne-prone skin), we turned to the experts to get some answers.
Meet the Expert
- Melissa Kanchanapoomi Levin, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist and founder of Entière Dermatology.
- David Petrillo is a cosmetic chemist and founder of Perfect Image.
Keep reading to learn the similarities and differences between salicylic acid and willow bark extract, plus everything else worth noting about the latter ingredient.
Willow Bark Extract
Type of ingredient: Plant extract
Main benefits: Gently exfoliates, calms redness, reduces oiliness and signs of aging.
Who should use it: Levin says, in general, willow bark extract is gentle, low-risk, and can even be used on sensitive skin.
How often can you use it: Levin says the daily use of willow bark extract is appropriate.
Works well with: As an exfoliating ingredient, willow bark extract can be slightly drying, so Petrillo suggests always following up with a good moisturizer. To boost the exfoliating and skin-cleansing benefits of willow bark extract, Petrillo recommends using products with salicylic acid, too.
Don't use with: "Willow bark is commonly used in cleansers and toners," Petrillo explains. "As long as none of the products you use contain active ingredients that don’t work with salicylic acid, then it is safe." A few examples of ingredients that Petrillo doesn't recommend mixing with salicylic acid are retinol and vitamin C.
What Is Willow Bark Extract?
Willow bark extract (or what Petrillo refers to as nature’s aspirin) is derived from various willow bark trees, including white, black, and purple. The ingredient is a natural salicin source, which is where the powerful acne-fighting ingredient that you're likely more familiar with, salicylic acid, comes from. Petrillo explains that, because of the salicin, willow bark extract has potent antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties (which improves the appearance of pores and fine lines, Levin adds). Not only does it have a rich supply of salicin, but as the skin experts point out, willow bark extract also has high concentrations of tannins, flavonoids, phenolic acids, and other minerals that help calm the skin and aid in cell regeneration. Because all of these ingredients allow for a more refreshed, youthful complexion, it makes sense why you might find willow bark extract included in all kinds of skincare products, like cleansers, moisturizers, toners, masks, and more.
Benefits of Willow Bark Extract for Skin
Thanks to its anti-inflammatory and antioxidative properties, willow bark extract offers more than a few skin benefits worth noting:
- Gently exfoliates: Petrillo explains that thanks to the salicin, willow bark extract can provide a gentle exfoliation to reveal more radiant, healthy-looking skin.
- Calms redness: Because of salicin's anti-inflammatory properties, Petrillo says it can also help alleviate redness and irritation.
- Refines pores: As mentioned, willow bark extract is rich in tannins, which are natural astringents. Petrillo says this helps to keep the skin tight and makes the pores appear smaller.
- Reduces oiliness: Petrillo adds that the tannins can also reduce oiliness, reducing acne breakouts. This explains why it's a prevalent ingredient in toners.
- Reduces signs of aging: Thanks to the polyphenols and flavonoids (powerful antioxidants) that help our skin fight against free radical damage, Petrillo says the ingredient can also reduce signs of aging and eliminate wrinkles.
- Locks in moisturize: The antioxidants also retain moisture, which allows the skin to stay healthy and hydrated. "Together, these powerful ingredients can help alleviate certain skin conditions like eczema, psoriasis, and rosacea," Petrillo says.
Willow Bark Extract vs. Salicylic Acid
"Salicylic acid, a popular and effective beta-hydroxy acid, is extensively used in skincare for its exfoliative and keratolytic properties for the treatment of acne," Levin explains. But what about the slightly lesser-known exfoliating ingredient, willow bark extract? Are they basically the same thing? Let's explore.
Remember: Willow bark contains salicin, which is where salicylic acid comes from. The salicylic acid found in skincare products is the metabolized derivative, Petrillo explains. "Willow bark extract has been shown to produce similar results to synthetic salicylic acid, except without some of the drawbacks," Petrillo continues. "Even in small concentrations of 0.5 percent to 1 percent, salicylic acid may cause irritation, redness, flaking, and dryness. Those with sensitive skin may actually break out more because of salicylic acid." On the other hand, salicin in willow bark extract is a much gentler version of salicylic acid. "Studies have found that even at a level of 100 percent, which is equivalent to 10 percent formulation of salicylic acid, salicin is non-irritating," Petrillo adds.
However, Levin argues that the exfoliative and skin rejuvenating properties of willow bark extract compared to salicylic acid are less effective for treating acne and exfoliating the skin. "Nonetheless, willow bark extract can provide skin benefits, such as anti-inflammatory and antioxidative properties," Levin adds.
Side Effects of Willow Bark Extract
As is the case with any skincare product, willow bark extract can cause irritation and allergic reactions. However, Levin says it's generally low-risk and gentle enough for sensitive skin.
How to Use It
How you should apply willow bark extract to the skin depends largely on the product at hand, but the ingredient is generally safe to use daily, according to Levin. Because the exfoliating ingredient has the potential to be drying, Petrillo recommends applying a moisturizer afterward.
