Byrdie / Ellie Benuska
Mascara is a no-skip essential in just about anyone's eye makeup routine (Ask someone what they'd do without inking their lashes in gooey coats, and they'd probably agree it's something you simply can't go without.)
The must-have product has an underrated versatility to it—the type of mascara wand used can leave you with an entirely different look, from light and wispy to thick and fluttery. But how to create a certain look—or rather, what exact wand to use, to begin with—remains one of the most overlooked beauty secrets out there for many. Luckily, we come baring answers to your burning questions.
We spoke with makeup experts Kelli J. Bartlett, Kenneth Soh, and Sam Kyle for insight on mascara brushes, and asked them how to assess different types of lashes, recommend products, and call out the effects each type of mascara wand can create. Check out our complete guide to the different types of mascara wands and their uses, ahead.
Meet the Expert
- Kelli J. Bartlett is a makeup artist with over a decade of experience in the industry and the VP of Education & Experience at Ever/Body.
- Kenneth Soh is a London-based makeup artist who works with clients such as Cara Delevingne and Naomie Harris.
- Sam Kyle is a makeup artist and the Senior Creative Design & Development expert at Mirabella Beauty.
Thick, Oversized Brush
Byrdie / Ellie Benuska
If you have curly, dense lashes, you might consider using a thick, oversized mascara wand. "A big, thick brush is excellent for curled, dense-looking lashes," Bartlett says. "It'll give you a large-eye look with a ton of flutter. The large wand is ideal for bigger eye shapes and the brush helps stretch the lash to curl."
Equipped with densely-packed bristles, an oversized mascara wand looks similar to a round hair dryer brush, explains Soh. "It grabs the lashes and enables the mascara formula to coat each lash fully to get maximum volume and impact."
Long, Skinny, Fine-Toothed Brush
Byrdie / Ellie Benuska
If you have curly, short, or fine lashes, a long, skinny, fine-toothed mascara wand is your best friend. Some bristles on fine-toothed brushes are made out of metal and "resemble the grooves of a screw," Soh says. This kind of wand is especially helpful if you want separated and well-defined lashes. According to Soh, this type of brush allows for easy mascara application down to the roots of the lashes. The brush pulls length and definition out of short lashes and can minimize clumping and over-saturation so lashes aren't weighed down.
"The tiny teeth untangle short, curly lashes—grabbing and coating even the smallest hairs," Bartlett adds. Plus, the "long, skinny shape of the wand allows for maximum eye coverage. It'll give you a natural effect but is also buildable for a more glamorous look."
Byrdie Tip
Mirabella Beauty's Sam Kyle says clumping can also result from using too much mascara, applying a product past the expiration date, or layering fresh mascara over residue. "While building up the product onto the lashes can help to achieve your desired result, there is a fine line between layering and entering that spidery, clumpy effect that isn't so flattering," says Kyle. When in doubt, aim for a 3-coat cut-off.
Hourglass-Shaped Brush
Byrdie / Ellie Benuska
If you have sparse lashes, an hourglass-shaped mascara wand is the way to go. "An hourglass-shaped brush with dense bristles is incredible for building volume and length for sparse lashes," Bartlett says. "The fine teeth act like a Mason Pearson brush, building up volume at the root, while the hourglass shape distributes product from root to tip. The result is a wide-eyed, mascara-heavy look." The curved structure of an hourglass-shaped brush is equipped with both long and short bristles, which work to de-clump and separate lashes, Soh adds.
Plastic Bristle Brush
Byrdie / Ellie Benuska
If you're always running five minutes late, a plastic bristle brush wand is perfect for you. "It delivers a lot of mascara to your lashes, really quickly," Barlett says. "The plastic channel applies mascara quickly and evenly, while the plastic teeth comb through your lashes. Expect bold lashes, quickly, with a very wet application." So try not to sneeze directly after swiping it on.
The bristles on a plastic bristle brush are usually "spiky," which help grab each lash individually and brush out clumps or excess mascara, says Soh. Because the wands are plastic, they are also very flexible, allowing you to maneuver the wand around the lash line and easily separate each lash individually.
Spike Ball Brush
Byrdie / Ellie Benuska
Are your lashes sparse in some places but dense in others? Try a spike ball mascara wand. "The spike-ball brush is amazing on sparse lashes, as well as those with super dense hairs—people who like to comb or 'pick' out their lashes to add volume, definition, and separation," Bartlett says. "It's especially great if you like to work in small sections, or if you want to build up on the outer corner of the eye to create a cat-eye effect."
Looking like a ball with spikes, this type of mascara wand is usually made of silicone or plastic. Spike ball brushes are typically small and are "perfect for customizing where you want length," Soh explains. "You could focus on the middle lashes to create a rounder open-eye effect or on the outer ends to elongate the eye shape by giving more length there."
Byrdie Tip
Kyle recommends using waterproof mascara to prevent smudging and maintain all-day wear. "Another great trick to prevent pesky smearing is to essentially 'prime' lashes with a translucent loose-setting powder," Kyle explains. "To do this, use a fluffy eyeshadow brush to pick up the setting powder, close your eye, and dust the powder across the lashes. Then, apply your mascara."
Pointed Tip Brush
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The pointed-tip mascara wand is made for lash perfectionists. "The duality of the brush allows for the bulk of the application to happen evenly and create volume while the pointed tip can separate and add density," Bartlett says.
The rounded section of the pointed tip wand allows for the traditional horizontal application while the pointed end allows easy access to hard-to-hit areas like the shorter inner lashes, says Soh.
