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Stocksy
If you're like many people with facial hair, you have shaved with acne at one point or another (or may even need to shave with some acne present most of the time). Shaving with acne can be, at minimum, an annoyance—or at worst, a painful ordeal that includes excess bleeding, scarring, and redness. I tend to shave every day, so when I break out with acne, it presents the challenge of how to shave around or over it and deal with the discomfort or visible consequences.
As common as shaving with acne may be, we can all use some smart advice for how best to approach the process—and we got just that from board-certified dermatologist Dhaval G. Bhanusali, MD FAAD, and celebrity groomer Andrea Pezzillo. Read on for what they shared.
Meet the Expert
- Dhaval G. Bhanusali, MD, FAAD, is a board-certified dermatologist and digital health entrepreneur based in Manhattan.
- Andrea Pezzillo is a celebrity groomer and hairstylist based in Los Angeles.
Shave on Clean Skin
Our experts say this is a must: "Make sure your skin is clean before shaving, whether you're using a trimmer or a razor," Pezzillo emphasizes. "It's crucial that your skin is free of dirt and oils, as these can harbor bacteria and contribute to acne." Bhanusali usually has acne-prone patients cleanse with salicylic acid specifically.
Open Your Pores Before
Shaving with pores open makes for a smoother, closer shave. Pezzillo recommends "using steam or a hot towel over your face before shaving," while Bhanusali suggests shaving after a shower. "The steam in the bathroom helps open up the pores for a cleaner, sharper cut and you are less likely to have ingrown hair and cysts," he explains.
Sanitize Your Blade
Before it touches your face, ensure the razor or trimmer blade you plan on using is sharp, sanitized, and clean to avoid adding bacteria to your skin.
Byrdie Tip
Know that phrase "different strokes for different folks?" The same goes for razors: "Test whether you can use a safety razor or if an electric trimmer is better for you," recommends Pezzillo.
Use Shaving Cream or Gel
Bhanusali recommends applying shaving cream or gel for a few minutes before shaving if you have active acne lesions, explaining: "This gives time for the hairs to be prepped and a cleaner shave." Pezzillo says "Apply a thin layer of shaving cream or gel to help the blade glide more smoothly." She adds that you'll want to avoid products with fragrance, as these "can irritate the skin."
Pick the Right Shaving Frequency
"How often you shave depends on your skin and hair texture," explains Pezillo. "Some people can shave daily, while others cannot." Bhanusali recommends keeping the shaving frequency to a minimum if possible, adding that, for many, "one or two times per week is fine."
Cleanse Post-Shave
Both experts recommend cleansing your face after shaving (yes, again). "Disposable face wipes are available on Amazon or other places, but you can also use a clean towel to dry off your face. Towels can store bacteria, so make sure your towel is clean. I recommend using a new face towel each day," says Pezzillo. "Dab your face dry versus rubbing the freshly shaven skin." Finish up with a 2% salicylic acid cleanser, per Bhanusali.
Use an Aftershave and Moisturizer
"Acne-prone skin is typically more sensitive, so use an aftershave and moisturizer without [many] fragrances," Pezzillo advises. "Ingredients like aloe and hyaluronic acid are beneficial." Bhanusali says this is the time to use a serum or medication: "This is the best time to get maximal penetration and efficacy."
Address Ingrown Hairs
Pezzillo cautions not to confuse ingrown hairs with acne. "If you're getting a lot of ingrown hairs, it may be time to rethink your shaving technique," she says. She suggests reaching out to a professional, like a dermatologist or esthetician. "They can help you establish a routine that helps achieve your desired results."
