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Sebaceous filaments are having a moment, only recently becoming a staple term in the skincare vernacular. Leave it to TikTok derms and skincare experts to school us on the difference between these particular oil plugs and what we once wrapped up in the general blackhead umbrella. If you're not up to speed on the blackheads vs sebaceous filaments argument: Both result from buildup in the pores and are often found on the nose but, while the two often look similar in appearance, they're entirely different and must therefore be approached differently. What's more, sebaceous filaments aren't even a type of breakout.
Now that we know that sebaceous filaments aren't actually blackheads, but rather something entirely different, we tapped four skincare experts to break down what exactly they are and how to reduce their appearance. Their insights, below.
Meet the Expert
- Brendan Camp, MD, is a double board-certified dermatologist at MDCS Dermatology in New York City.
- Kat Burki is a skincare expert and founder of her eponymous brand.
- Diane Madfes, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist based in New York City.
- Renée Rouleau is a celebrity esthetician and the founder of Renée Rouleau Skin Care.
What Are Sebaceous Filaments?
“Sebaceous filaments are naturally occurring, tube-like structures that line the walls of your pores," explains celebrity esthetician Renée Rouleau. "Their purpose is to direct oil flow.” Skincare expert and founder of her eponymous brand, Kat Burki, adds that sebaceous filaments are part of the skin's follicle. "They only become noticeable when they fill with oil."
When pores fill up with oil, they become sebaceous filaments, the little yellow and gray dots you notice along your nose and cheeks. “Your skin produces oil (also known as sebum) to protect and moisturize itself. Sebaceous filaments help guide that oil from your sebaceous glands, where the oil is produced, to the surface of your skin, where the oil can get to work fighting environmental aggressors and dehydration,” Rouleau says. Since they're part of your skin, you can't get rid of them. However, you can minimize their appearance.
So, how exactly do we do that? Rouleau says that the answer is more complicated than we might hope. “Even if you extract or squeeze sebaceous filaments, they will fill up again within 30 days.” However, all hope isn't lost. Through a combination of products and treatments, you can lessen their appearance and help prevent them over time.
Sebaceous Filaments vs Blackheads
Sebaceous filaments often appear very similar to blackheads, but they're different. A blackhead is a form of breakout as a result of clogged pores, while sebaceous filaments are actually a part of the anatomy of your pores that become more visible when they are filled with oil. “Blackheads are darker and tend to have a texture to them," explains Dr. Brendan Camp, a double-board certified dermatologist in New York City. "Sebaceous filaments are a normal skin finding; they feel smooth, do not block pores, and everyone has them.”
How to Treat Sebaceous Filaments:
Commit to a Routine
As Rouleau mentioned earlier, there is no method of permanently removing sebaceous filaments. They are a natural part of the skin and, regardless of how many times you clean them out, they will fill up again in about a month's time. So if you're looking for a one-time solution, you won't find one. You'll need to commit to, maintain, and frequently return to a straight-up routine to keep those tell-tale oil plugs at bay. “The most economical way to address sebaceous filaments is to make treating them part of a routine,” Camp reminds us.
Avoid Alcohol-Heavy Skincare
While a little bit of alcohol in a skincare product probably won't cause a reaction, Burki says that higher doses could have a negative impact. "Not only will the skin not breathe, which exacerbates sebaceous filaments, but if there are healthy ingredients in the product, your skin won't be able to absorb them," she furthers.
Keep Your Skin Clean
To prevent your pores from getting clogged and to keep them clear of debris, board-certified dermatologist Dr. Diane Madfes says to make sure to remove makeup and cleanse your skin every day. "Using a cleanser with a salicyclic or glycolic acid component will help loosen the sebum and help empty the contents," she adds. If you have very oily skin, consider cleansing both in the morning and at night.
Use Chemical Exfoliants to Break Up Oil Plugs
“AHAs, such as glycolic and lactic acid, exfoliate the skin by removing dead skin cells,” explains Camp. “Beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs), like salicylic acid, are lipophilic, allowing them to mingle with oil deep within the pore and break up oil plugs.” This exfoliation one-two punch is a sebaceous filament-killer that can be deployed when the routine cleanse isn't cutting it.
Key Ingredients
AHAs are a group of acid compounds, most often derived from plant-based sources, which work to exfoliate the skin. They come in a variety of types (like glycolic and lactic acids) and differ in size, penetration, and potency.
Balance Active Ingredients With Gentle Ones
For a sebaceous filaments-friendly routine, you'll need to balance those harsher active ingredients with calming ones to keep your skin as healthy as possible. "It’s imperative to tap into the healthy life cycle of skin with a regular exfoliation of alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs), enzymes, and/or gentle physical exfoliates such as fibers at least two times a week. Next make sure after exfoliation the skin is flooded with ingredients that heal the new cell growth with antioxidants, vitamins, neuropeptides, ferments including algae, mushroom, and sea kelp. These ingredients deeply nourish and allow new cells to flourish," says Burki.
Incorporate a Clarifying Mask
Face masks are great treatments for when your skin needs a little extra TLC. If you're intentional about choosing and using these masks, you can really see a huge impact over time on the sebaceous filaments in your skin. Burki says that clarifying products help to replenish the skin of needed nutrients and encourage healthier cell growth.
Tone Up Pores With BHAs
As Camp explained earlier, BHAs work to clear pores of excess oil, dead skin cells, and debris. “It's able to cut through oil and get deep into your pores which will allow it to start breaking up the gunk clogging your pores, minimizing the appearance of the filaments and preventing more from cropping up,” adds Rouleau. The benefits of BHAs can be harnessed outside of the usual exfoliation technique, by incorporating gentler concentrations more frequently via a toner. If you have a pretty basic routine, adding a BHA toner is going to pack a punch.
Don't Forget Moisturizer
All this talk of oil-control and unclogging pores probably has you ready to swear off of moisturizer indefinitely. Allow us to talk you back to hydration. According to Madfes, drying the skin too much could trigger excess oil production which is exactly what we're trying to avoid in the first place. Instead, look for hydrating moisturizers that are formulated for your skin's needs. If your skin is naturally oily, look for oil-free, non-comedogenic formulas that absorb quickly rather than sitting ontop of the skin.
Regulate Oil Flow With Retinol
"Retinol works to increase cell turn over and empties the channels," says Madfes. "It also tightens the surrounding collagen to decrease the channel size." Rouleau suggests incorporating retinol with an over-the-counter option, such as Differin's Adapalene Gel. To use it, apply a thin layer of the gel daily after cleansing, though if you're sensitive or new to retinol, you should start by applying it two times per week and then work your way up to daily use.
Take Supplements to Encourage New Cell Growth
Beauty shines from the inside out, so consider getting to the root of your concerns by taking a supplement. "Supplements—and food sources—high in vitamin B and antioxidants encourage new cell growth and healthy hydration. Look for vitamin B, C, A, enzymes, mushrooms and minerals," recommends Burki.
Use Sun Protection
Sun exposure harms our skin's health in many ways—it even maximizes the appearance of sebaceous filaments. "Over time, sun damage dilates the openings and damages your collagen production," explains Madfes. To minimize their appearance, make sure to use sunscreen every day.
Carefully Use an At-Home Extraction Tool to Unclog Pores
Dermaflash Dermapore works by offering two modes, one for extraction and one for infusion. In extraction mode, the tool uses ultrasonic waves to vibrate away dirt and oil from clogged pores. It's important to keep your face damp throughout the treatment so that the tool smoothly glides over your skin, so we suggest steaming your face beforehand. If you use it about once a week, you should see a noticeable improvement within a month of use as it vibrates away excess oil and dead skin cells.
